DEBJANI GUPTA

Every metropolis has its signature street food, and Kolkata is no exception. We really have streets full of flavours and aromatic colours. The variety of street food varies with the season and the weather, the impact of ongoing festivals, if any, the age group of the clientele it caters to, and also the location in the city where it is being served. The sad reality is however much one tries to recreate those magical recipes in the home kitchen the palate  tingling zing of the street food is never recreated. The choices are many but to mention just a few of these mouth watering delicacies:

CHURMUR

I wonder if there is a proper name to this tantalising street food. The very name evokes a delicious crunch of the multicoloured ingredients, the twist of the tangy liquids, the judicious mix of spices while rattling the spoon, the dash of  lime and the topping of green chilli and coriander leaves. All very neatly packaged and handed over in a leafy container.

Standing by the roadside and having it, tailor-made to individual preferences, the heady aroma that tickles the nose followed by the delight, as each morsel hits the palate. Such undiluted  joy! A feeling of well-being that overrides the niggling worry what the consequences of it could very well be the following day .

PUCHKA

You need to open your mouth wide, take firm hold of the half-full puchka leaking with tamarind water, and gulp it in one go. The zing and the tang hits the palate and the senses, and your face gets creased with a satisfied smile. Be careful to pause between the refills to enjoy it all, hence the servings have to be handed over just at the right speed.

The last time I had this delicacy standing at the roadside was when I was in college. The going rate was 6 for 25 paise and I used to demand one free at the end. This was in front of Lady Brabourne College. I am in love with this wonder food and especially never miss it amidst all the elaborate cuisine at the Indian weddings. In fact, I have had it at the grandest of restaurants served in porcelain white bowls by people in full ethnic attire! All very good, but the streetside puchka is a distinct entity. Definitely one of its kind.

JHAL MURI (Spiced Puff Rice)

The hallmark of the ideal Jhal Muri: should be well timed, from making, mixing, serving to gobbling. If eaten too early, the flavour of all the ingredients do not percolate through. If eaten too late, it becomes one big soggy mess. The tomatoes and onions need to be very finely chopped. The size to be such that their visibility in the mix adds to the brightness and the colour and yet be small enough so that the teeth feel happy. The sliver of coconut is best served separate, you either like it or don’t! If somebody else makes it for you, even better. There is an immense drooling joy in the anticipation.

The flavours have to be subtle, the dash of the lime, the zing of the oil, the granules of rock salt, the sprig of coriander leaves, the sprinkling of bhujiya and the professional mixing of the concoction all need to be optimal. Make it overpowering, and you would have killed it! Think happy thoughts when you’re munching the Muri. The goodness wells up from within. Don’t be greedy, eat small portions. Need to be tummy friendly, always save the moments of small joys. They all add up; top it off with a cup of tea.

HOT KATHI ROLL

The ubiquitous eggroll was a life saver and an evening snack to yearn for during the college days. Never mind, the ultra greasy iron pan on which floated the paratha, never mind, the roadside chopping of onions, cucumber, and generous dash of green chilies, never mind the dubious authenticity of the tomato and chilli sauces. Just the thought of the various permutations of the humble eggroll made the evening rosy and something to look forward to.

PAKORIS

Whatever the stuffing be in it: onions, brinjal, bell peppers, potatoes, lentils… always a favourite, but to be consumed in small portions. Pakori sound so much attractive than dumplings and appealing as well! They seem to be high up on the Want-to-munch list during the monsoons, though low down on the Want-to-prepare list. Depending on the energy stores, the serotonin levels in the brain and  the ambient temperature externally, the choice of the stuffing  in the Pakori  varies.

Anyway, I digress. Making the pakodi sounds deceptively, easy, but can be frustratingly tricky as well. Points to ponder: The experience is gathered by numerable trial and error episodes. Choice of the batter, ingredients added, and the spice level depends on what they are going to be drowned in or else consumed on its own, as also it depends on individual preferences. Optimal salt portions will make or break it.  Depth of oil given for frying and just the right consistency of the matter, will decide the end result. Firm on the outside and soft inside and a burst of all the flavours in the mouth: then you have the perfect pakori!

At the end of the day, the flavours of the street food rest on a combination of factors. How happily and swiftly it is being prepared and served. The company that accompany the munching of the food. The mood barometer being set at an optimal level. The promise of revisiting again.

DR DEBJANI GUPTA is a senior consultant paediatrician with a special interest in neonatology; she is currently attached to Narayana Multispeciality Hospital, Howrah and Zenith Superspecialist Hospital Kolkata.
Trained in Kolkata and UK she has over 30 years of experience. She is actively involved with academic and clinical activities in the state and in different parts of the country.